Safe Food storehouse Temperatures

Whether you have kids going off to college, thoughprovoking into an apartment, or if you have younger kids - you want to be sure they know about safe food storehouse temperatures. A recapitulate of safe storehouse for refrigerated or frosty foods can prevent serious illness. Bacteria multiplies in foods that are left at room temperature for many hours, especially meat and dairy products. Bacterial poising can ordinarily be prevented if food is properly refrigerated or frosty and cooked to enough temperatures. Here is a uncomplicated checklist to recapitulate with the house to prevent food illness from improperly stored foods.

Storing Refrigerated Food

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There is a limit as to how long food can be kept in the fridge. Once the food begins to look or smell bad, it should be thrown out. Succeed these tips to help keep refrigerated food safe:

Always keep the temperature in the fridge at 4ºC or 40º F or less to deter bacterial growth. Store eggs in their carton on a shelf, not the door. Keep meat and poultry products in the primary packaging. Containers contains prominent information, like best before dates, either it was previously frozen, and where the stock is from (traceability). Keep your fridge clean to avoid cross-contamination from spilled or spoiled foods Don't let meat or juices of raw meat and poultry drip causing contamination of other foods. Check labels to see if refrigeration after opportunity is required, once a vacuum seal is broken. Refrigerating food reduces growth of organisms which can cause food poisoning. Food is ordinarily safe up to 2 weeks after opening, unless otherwise stated on the label. Do not store food in open metal cans in the refrigerator. Replacement food to glass or plastic reusable containers.
Storing frosty Food

Keeping food at -18ºC (0º F) stops bacterial growth, but it doesn't kill bacteria already there. Food can be defrosted in the fridge, under cold running water or in the microwave. If you defrost food in the microwave, cook it immediately. Food that is freezer burnt - dry in some spots - is safe to eat but may not taste very good. Do not refreeze food that was frosty then thawed.  If you cook the food when it is thawed, then you may refreeze it.
Fridge and Freezer Checklist

After you shop, immediately put away food that needs to be refrigerated or frozen.  You'll know where they need to be by remembering which section of the grocery store you bought them in. Is the temperature of your fridge and freezer cold enough? Fridge should be 4º C (40ºF) or below. Freezer should be -18ºC (0ºF). Don't put too much in either your fridge or freezer. Cool air must circulate freely to keep food properly chilled. Clean them both regularly
Durable Life data on Food Products

Durable life is the amount of time that an unopened stock will keep its wholesomeness, taste and nutritional value when stored under acceptable conditions. Manufacturers and retailer are responsible for determining the durable life of their food products.  Durable life data is not a warrant of the protection of the product.  Old pancake mix, for instance, can design dangerous mold spores and should be discarded.

It is prominent to teach kids food safety. The one rule I teach every person in my family: When in Doubt  - Throw it Out!  It is not worth risking your health on bad food.

Safe Food storehouse Temperatures

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Decorating Your Older Home for Comfortable Living

Decorating an older home can be a real challenge. Most of us don't literally want to live the way our ancestors did. The aim is to get the flavor of the era you wish to scheme without the hurt and aggravation. old cushion is not noted for its comfort. old beds tend to be too short for contemporary bodies and most of us prefer an inner spring or foam mattress to one stuffed with straw or horsehair. Although I have cooked on an iron wood stove and completely enjoyed it in the depth of winter, there is nothing to advise it in July. So where do you draw the line in the middle of authenticity and contemporary life?

Fortunately you can get contemporary upholstery, with contemporary foam, coil decks and cushions, in older styles and fabrics. Unless you are trying to get a museum room, it isn't principal to copy the former styles exactly. Be meticulous of proportions, but any cushion piece which is a superior style will blend with antiques, or reproductions. Fabric choices can give an old look and are available in reproduced patterns made from modern, low maintenance fabrics. If you have antiques, avoid the need to put matched pairs of everything. Our ancestors loved that balanced look and many of us still find that a comfortable look to live with, but if only your upholstered pieces match, they will draw attentiveness away from your show pieces.

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The exception, as always, is in a formal room. If you are living in a home from the 1700's and want to get the flavor of the era, you will want more formalized seating patterns. However, the newer trend in historic houses is to have furniture from some eras from the former built date to represent. Our ancestors were thrifty. Furniture was hand produced and costly, so people didn't tend to pitch pieces which were out of style. It wasn't until mass produced, uncostly furniture became widely available that people started dumping Grandma's pine table in the chicken house, or slapped a coat of green paint on the solid cherry drop leaf and put it on the front porch.

Generally, keep your upholstered pieces subdued but try for the spoton style (or a modified version) of the window treatments and case pieces. Wing chairs have been beloved for 300 years, but make sure yours are comfortable to sit on before you conclude you have to have them. Our ancestors had much good posture and liked sitting very straight. superior styles of contemporary furniture keep the lines of the old, but have a good slant to the backs. The real result of the room can be created by how you decorate your walls, floors and windows, and by using accessories creatively.

Decorators are divided about such contemporary adjuncts as kitchen appliances, Tv's and sound systems. My feeling is, good compose blends with good design. Some of the newer appliances are beautifully designed and our ancestors would have made that stainless steel, side by side refrigerator with ice and water on the door, the showpiece of the house so I am not a big fan of attempting to hide large contemporary appliances behind wooden doors and cupboards. I do think they tend to look good in stainless or black but that's a personal opinion. The exception to the kitchen appliance rule is for houses built in the last century when kitchen appliances were becoming common. Reproductions are available in the styles of the 20's, 30's, 40's and 50's and can make a literally clever kitchen which is fully functional.

My feeling about Tv's and sound systems is similar. If you don't have a media room, there are hundreds of styles of armoires which will hide the Tv and look like a piece of old furniture. select carefully. They can be overwhelming. However, if you want the Tv to sit out or hang on the wall, go for it. You can soften its stark modernity by the things you sit around it.

So when you conclude to redecorate and give your home a more period feel, keep these things in mind.

Lighting is available in any style incredible and will give an result of authenticity. Conversion rails are available to advance old beds and to maximize comfort. Reproduction wallpapers are easy to find and are divided into the eras in which they were popular. Classes on painting techniques and stenciling can be taken at your local home store. The library is a great source for beloved styles of all eras.
Once you have done a diminutive explore into the look you are trying to create, adapt it to your own needs and decorate in the spirit of that era instead of trying to create a room which hasn't changed in 150 years.

Contributions for this description from On The Go 4 U compose consultant, Suzanne Copenhaver who has years of perceive decorating less than excellent spaces.

Decorating Your Older Home for Comfortable Living

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What is the contrast in the middle of a Kitchen Mixer and a Blender?

There are so many kitchen appliances these days that choosing what you need can be confusing. While these appliances make cooking easier, knowing which ones you indubitably need will save you time and money. Those who find themselves cooking on a regular basis may decree to invest in several mixers and blenders to serve their needs. So, what is the dissimilarity between a kitchen mixer and blender? Here are some basic information hand mixers, stand mixers and blenders.

Blenders- The package that comes with the blender can be made of plastic, glass or stainless steel and contains markings with measurements. Blenders can be used for many different things but are best at production smoothies, milkshakes, purees, soup, and crushing ice. Typical ingredients that would go in a blender contain fruits, vegetables, yogurt, milk, liquids and ice.

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Hand Mixers- Most habitancy are customary with the hand mixer. The hand mixer is a small, motorized kitchen appliance that is lightweight and portable. It allows you to mix ingredients in one bowl swiftly and with less effort than mixing it manually. Nowadays, galvanic hand mixers are most popular, allowing the experienced cook to whip up something for cooking and baking within a cheap time frame.

Stand Mixers- If a hand mixer is best for smaller jobs, a stand mixer (or kitchen stand mixer) is best for medium to large jobs. They are quite an investment, so you will have to decree if you indubitably need one (or if you just really, indubitably want one!) Kitchen stand mixers are "hands-free" and can be used to mix thick bread dough and cake batter, whisk egg whites, and put in order large batches of food at a time. Kitchen stand mixers typically come with 3 attachments: a dough hook, flat beater, and a wire whisk. The dough hook is for kneading, the flat beater for cake batters and the wire whisk for eggs and such. Other attachments, such as pasta rollers, food grinders, sausage stuffers, and ice cream makers can be bought at an further price.

Stand mixers are sometimes beloved to hand mixers because they wish less manual effort, get the job done more quickly, and provides more options. For a smaller job, using a hand mixer is not a problem. However, if you are making ready lots of food for a crowd of people, you may find that a kitchen stand mixer will get the job done with less aches and pains. This is because, as long as you keep an eye on it, the appliance will do all the work for you. They are also are faster at mixing than hand mixers, and the further attachments makes cooking a dream!

What is the contrast in the middle of a Kitchen Mixer and a Blender?

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Tips For Removing Linoleum

When it comes time to get new flooring you can save money by removing the old flooring yourself but if you have old linoleum on your floors you might be in for quite a challenge. Depending on how old the linoleum is and the type of adhesive that was used it can be extremely difficult to get up.

First of all, it's unlikely that you'll be able to just take off the linoleum and adhesive all at once. The surface under the linoleum and the damage you might cause it needs to be considered - especially if that surface is wood. Concrete floors can take a lot more in the way of rough treatment. The type of scraper you use has a lot to do with your success as well as the damage to the floor underneath. Many people use paint scrapers but those with a razor blade are commonly more efficient. Be ready to break some blades it if the adhesive is hard, and you're working on concrete.

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Try cutting the linoleum into strips or sections instead of removing the whole chunk at once. This will make it easier to get an edge to pry up. Of course, the linoleum probably won't come up in nice neat sections so be ready to deal with a lot of left over backing and glue that is still attached to your floor.

One way to deal with those remnants that just won't come up is to apply some kind of solvent or remover. A popular brand is Krud Kutter, which appears to work very well from the buyer feedback comments. Ensue directions on the label of anything goods you employ, and wear gloves to safe your hands. Do a small section at a time, and then move to the next one.

Another technique is to use boiling water and pour it directly on the backing and adhesive. Let it soak and then scrape up. If you don't want to use water, you can try to heat up the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun. Pick a very inconspicuous area, such as behind a door, to try it. Heat the adhesive with the hair dryer and scrape it up with a straight-blade scraper (like a stiff putty knife with a beveled edge). Move the scraper in the direction of the grain of the wood if you are uncovering a hardwood floor. Have a pan or some other package handy to drop the scrapings into - one that is unlikely to either melt or ignite when advent in feel with hot materials. Be very just if you are using a heat gun as this can unmistakably damage the floor underneath if it is wood.

If worse comes to worse and you are left with some stubborn adhesive on the floors, it might be time to sand. Of course, if your floors are wood and you plan to refinish them you would need to sand anyway, but while this step you must be just not to damage the single area by holding the sander on it for too long.

Once you finally get the linoleum and all traces of adhesive up, you are ready to seal the floor as recommended for the type of flooring and apply the new floor as recommended!

Tips For Removing Linoleum

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White Kitchen Cabinets and Kitchen create

Today the most favorite type of home correction homeowners are wanting and doing is kitchen remodeling. Kitchens are the main attraction and communal center of your home for establishment meals for your family and for friends a comfortable place to socialize and gather. Kitchen originate and planning is most prominent step for you to accomplish the personal look, practical use and customized to meet you and your family's lifestyle and needs. One of the most favorite colors kitchen designers pick is white. White kitchen cabinets can be used to make a subtle originate statement or portray a very dramatic distinctive look. The color white speaks for itself and depending on the style of kitchen cabinetry and door style you can originate a look that fits your personality. White kitchen cabinets are used for many distinct decor such as contemporary, traditional, country, French country, English, shaker and many more. There are also many choices of material used for kitchen cabinets like; plastic laminate, white painted wood, high gloss lacquer, vinyl foil, white stain and white washed desist - all having their our originate statement. Each of these styles has a distinctive look and can reflect your own personality.

White kitchen cabinets make color choices for accessories and countertops somewhat easier to pick an accent color theme throughout the kitchen and surrounding rooms. Using white color cabinetry in any of the styles mentioned can accomplish a originate which is timeless and stay popular ,favorite for years to come. Contemporary style white gloss finishes give a very sleek Contemporary look, while white painted wood raised panel door styles can give a warm former feeling in a kitchen. The flooring and countertop colors are the main accent areas and can drastically give distinct moods with distinct colors. A white former style cabinet with wood flooring is very favorite and makes the kitchen feel very entertaining and warm. Adding granite countertops to this compound again can totally change the mood of the kitchen depending on the color and texture.

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The color option for appliances is also very prominent and contributes to the total originate statement. I would propose if you are planning a former style kitchen use matching white wood front decorator panels on the dishwasher and refrigerator fronts as they will blend in best with the total look and use your option for ovens, cook tops and sinks as stainless steel or black. In a Contemporary style kitchen many designers pick to accent all appliances with contrasting colors to originate a more dramatic look. In the past many habitancy felt that white kitchen cabinets were only for showrooms and opinion white was too much work to maintain. With today's new wood finishes and artificial materials white kitchen cabinetry is as easy to pronounce as any other stained color. White kitchen cabinets have been in style for the past 20 years and show no signs of going out of the style trends to date. It is much easier to change color themes from time to time by changing window treatments, place mats and countertop accessories with new accent colors if you choose.

White Kitchen Cabinets and Kitchen create

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How to Make Jerky - Step-by-Step Instructions

Before the invention of refrigeration and preservatives, the only way to preserve meat for long periods of time was to dry it into jerky. Drying meat into jerky is possibly the oldest way of preserving meat and jerky dates back to the earliest civilizations.

Traditionally, jerky was made from long, thin strips of meat that was salted and dried in the sun or over a small smokey fire. Although jerky can still be made in this way, techniques have come to be more sophisticated in our day. Jerky is still an highly popular food and millions of people still enjoy jerky as a delicious, convenient, and healthy source of protein. Jerky is exquisite for hikers, campers, or just an easy, non-messy snack.

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Today, jerky is most ordinarily made from beef, but jerky can also be made from poultry, fish, and wild game such as deer (venison), elk, buffalo, bison, moose, caribou, antelope, and other game. Many varieties of seasonings can be used to make dissimilar flavors of jerky. Salt is traditionally used as the main preservative for jerky, but acids such as vinegar and citrus juice in marinades can also help to kill bacteria. Jerky can be made without salt, but its shelf life will be drastically reduced.

Store-bought jerky comes in many flavors with any number of chemicals, additives, and preservatives and can be surprisingly expensive. However, you can make your own jerky at home very easily. Most people are surprised at just how easy it is to make appetizing jerky that is much economy and healthier than mass-produced jerky available in stores. So by making your own jerky, you not only operate the ingredients, you also save money.

Jerky Making: Step-by-Step Instructions
Select a cut of meat. Choosing a lean cut will save time later. For beef jerky, cuts like like sirloin, top round, eye of round, etc. Are good choices. You can also use venison or virtually any other type of meat to make jerky. Trim all of the noticeable fat from your cut of meat because any fat will cause the jerky to spoil much faster. Slice your meat into very thin strips from 1/8" to 1/4" thick. Cutting the meat into thin slices dramatically shortens drying time. You can cut jerky with just a knife and cutting board, but there are some convenient tools you can use for slicing meat, such as a Jerky Slicing Tray, a Hand-Crank by hand Jerky Slicer, or an electric meat slicer. Tip: Slicing meat is easier if you frost the meat for about 30 to 60 minutes before slicing. You can cut with or against the grain, but some find that strips cut against the grain are easier to chew. Marinate the meat in a marinade or solution of your choice. You can result a recipe to make your own marinade or buy any number of ready-made marinades. Marinating is optional because the supplementary moisture can make dehydration take longer, and the resulting jerky might be stickier. Soaking in soy sauce or teriyaki sauce is a favorite. Place in the refrigerator for 4 - 24 hours to allow the meat Ant. Eject the flavor. Season the meat with the dry seasonings of your choice. You can result a jerky recipe or select from a wide collection of available dry jerky seasoning mixes. A combination of salt, pepper, oregano, marjoram, basil and thyme is tasty. You will find that many seasonings work well and it is a personal preference. I personally enjoy jerky with a lot of pepper. You will need to experiment to find your favorites. Just sprinkle and rub the dry seasonings onto both sides of the sliced meat. Dehydrate the meat. Meat is dehydrated by applying heat and continuous air flow. The operate of both the temperature and the airflow is very important. If the humidity is too high and the temperature is too low, the jerky will dry too gently and it could spoil. If the temperature is too high, the jerky will cook too fast, condense on the covering but still be too moist on the inside, and once again, it could spoil. There are two common methods for drying jerky; in a accepted oven or in a food dehydrator. Whichever recipe you use, be sure to leave adequate room in the middle of pieces to allow air to flow colse to the meat. Avoid letting the meat touch if possible. Making Jerky in a accepted Oven Preheat your oven to 140 degrees. Remember you are not cooking the meat; you are naturally removing the moisture. Spray all the racks you will use with a non stick cooking spray. Without this non-stick spray, you will be left with jerky that cannot be removed from the racks and that will essentially be inedible. Spread the meat evenly on wire racks in the oven. You can also use metal racks other than the oven racks with a drip pan underneath to make cleanup much faster. Leave the oven door open slightly to permit moisture to escape. Since temperatures, humidity levels, and slice thickness will vary, there can be no set time for the process to complete. Ordinarily jerky takes from 6 to 12 hours. Check the consistency of the jerky Ordinarily after 6 hours until it meets your satisfaction. You might have to cut into the jerky to ensure that it is not raw inside. You want the jerky to be a deep brown or burgundy color and still be flexible. As jerky cools, it will get more stiff and brittle so you don't want to over dry. Making Jerky in a Food Dehydrator Food Dehydrators are exquisite for making jerky. Dehydrators are reasonable to buy and are safer and economy to use than the kitchen oven. Additionally dehydrators make less of a mess and are easier to clean up. Spray the dehydrator trays with a non-stick cooking spray before placing on the strips of meat. This keeps the meat from sticking and helps in the clean up of the trays. Season the jerky strips just as above and drain them well before placing them on the dehydrator trays. A full dehydrator can Ordinarily process a large batch of jerky in 6 to 12 hours. Just like with drying in a accepted oven, temperatures, humidity levels, and slice thickness will vary, so the drying time will vary. You will want to check the jerky Ordinarily after 6 hours to see if its done. You want the jerky to be a deep brown or burgundy color and still be flexible. As jerky cools, it will get more stiff and brittle so you don't want to over dry. The thicker cuts will take more time, so as the thin pieces are done, just remove them. Tip: A rule of thumb is that 4 pounds of raw meat makes about one pound of jerky. Store the fulfilled, jerky in plastic bags and store in the refrigerator or freezer until ready to eat. To be safe, it's best to enjoy the fresh homemade jerky within one week of its preparation. If you make it right, it's delicious!Tip: If you wish to store your jerky for longer, use a vacuum sealer to store the jerky in vacuum bags. Other storehouse methods allow exposure to oxygen and moisture, which encourages the growth of bacteria. In vacuum sealed bags, jerky can be kept for months. Vacuum sealed jerky stored in a freezer can last even longer.
Alternative: Jerky Snack Strips & Sticks
Instead of making jerky from sliced meat, a popular form of jerky is the jerky snack stick or snack strip, which is made from seasoned ground meat formed into strips or round sticks. To make this jerky snack, you first need to buy extra lean ground meat or grind lean cuts of meat with a meat grinder. The next step is to mix the seasonings into the ground meat by hand or with a meat mixer. The seasoned ground meat can then be extruded into the snack sticks or strips using a Jerky Gun or Jerky Cannon. Finally, these jerky snacks are dehydrated on trays in a accepted oven or food dehydrator as described above.

Who knew it was so easy to make your own jerky? Enjoy!

How to Make Jerky - Step-by-Step Instructions

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The Ways An Air Conditioner Compressor Can Fail, and What To Do About It

Air conditioner compressors commonly fail due to one of two conditions: time and hours of operation (wear out), or abuse. There are some failures that can occur elsewhere in the theory that will cause a compressor failure, but these are less common unless the theory has been substantially abused.

Usually abuse is a ensue of extended running with improper freon charge, or as a consequence of improper service along the way. This improper service can contain overcharging, undercharging, installing the wrong starter capacitor as a replacement, removing (rather than repairing/replacing) the thermal limiter, insufficient oil, mixing incompatible oil types, or wrong oil, installing the compressor on a theory that had a major burnout without taking allowable steps to take off the acid from the system, installing the wrong compressor (too small) for the system, or installing a new compressor on a theory that had some other failure that was never diagnosed.

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The compressor can fail in only a handful of distinct ways. It can fail open, fail shorted, contact a bearing failure, or a piston failure (throw a rod), or contact a valve failure. That is pretty much the entire list.

When a compressor fails open, a wire inside the compressor breaks. This is unserviceable and the indication of illness is that the compressor does not run, though it may hum. If the compressor fails open, and following the steps here does not fix it, then the theory may be a good candidate for a new compressor. This failure causes no further failures and won't damage the rest of the system; if the rest of the theory is not decrepit then it would be cost productive to just put a new compressor in.

Testing for a failed open compressor is easy. Pop the electrical cover for the compressor off, and take off the wires and the thermal limiter. Using an ohmmeter, quantum the impedance from one terminal to another over all three terminals of the compressor. Also quantum the impedance to the case of the compressor for all three terminals.

You should read low impedance values for all terminal to terminal connections (a few hundred ohms or less) and you should have a high impedance (several kilo-ohms or greater) for all terminals to the case (which is ground). If any of the terminal to terminal connections is a very high impedance, you have a failed open compressor. In very rare cases, a failed open compressor may show a low impedance to ground from one terminal (which will be one of the terminals related with the failed open). In this case, the broken wire has moved and is contacting the case. This health - which is quite rare but not impossible - could cause a breaker to trip and could ensue in a misdiagnosis of failed short. Be meticulous here; do an acid test of the contents of the lines before choosing how to stride with repair.

When a compressor fails short, what happens is that insulation on the wires has worn off or burned off or broken inside the compressor. This allows a wire on a motor winding to touch something it should not touch - most ordinarily itself a turn or two further along on the motor winding. This results in a "shorted winding" which will stop the compressor immediately and cause it to heat up and burn internally.

Bad bearings can cause a failed short. Either the rotor wobbles enough to contact the stator, resulting in insulation damage that shorts the rotor Either to ground or to the stator, or end bearing wear can allow the stator to shift down over time until it begins to rub against the stator ends or the housing.

Usually when one of these shorts occur, it is not immediately a hard short - meaning that initially the contact is intermittent and comes and goes. Every time the short occurs, the compressor torque drops sharply, the compressor may shudder a bit visibly as a result, and this shudder shakes the winding enough to detach the short. While the short is in place, the current through the shorted winding shoots up and a lot of heat is produced. Also, commonly the short will blow some sparks - which produces acid inside the air conditioner theory by decomposing the freon into a aggregate of hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acid.

Over time (possibly a merge of weeks, commonly less) the shuddering and the sparking and the heat and the acid cause insulation to fail rapidly on the winding. Ultimately, the winding loses enough insulation that the inside of the compressor is genuinely burning. This will only go on for a few minutes but in that time the compressor destroys itself and fills the theory with acid. Then the compressor stops. It may at that time melt a wire loose and short to the housing (which can trip your house main breaker) or it may not. If the initial cause of the failure was bad bearings causing the rotor to rub, then commonly when the thing ultimately dies it will be shorted to the housing.

If it shorts to the housing, it will blow fuses and/or breakers and your ohmmeter will show a very low impedance from one or more windings to ground. If it does not short to the housing, then it will just stop. You still make the type of failure using an ohmmeter.

You cannot directly diagnose a failed short with an ohmmeter unless it shorts to the housing - a shorted winding won't show up with an ohmmeter though it would with an inductance meter (but who has one of those?) Instead, you have to infer the failed short. You do this by establishing the the ohmmeter gives normal readings, the starter capacitor is good, power is arriving at the compressor, And an acid test of the freon shows acid present.

With a failed short, just give up. Change everything, together with the lines if possible. It is not worth fixing; it is full of acid and therefore is all junk. Further, a failed short could have been initially induced by some other failure in the theory that caused a compressor overload; by replacing the whole theory you also will get rid of that inherent other problem.

Less commonly, a compressor will have a bearing failure, piston failure or a valve failure. These mechanical failures commonly just signal wear out but could signal abuse (low lubricant levels, thermal limiter removed so compressor overheats, chronic low freon health due to un-repaired leaks). More rarely, they can signal another failure in the theory such as a reversing valve qoute or an expansion valve qoute that winds up letting liquid freon get into the suction side of the compressor.

If a bearing fails, commonly you will know because the compressor will sound like a motor with a bad bearing, or it will lock up and refuse to run. In the worst case, the rotor will wobble, the windings will rub on the stator, and you will wind up with a failed short.

If the compressor locks up mechanically and fails to run, you will know because it will buzz very loudly for a few seconds and may shudder (just like any stalled motor) until the thermal limiter cuts it off. When you do your electrical checks, you will find no evidence of failed open or failed short. The acid test will show no acid. In this case, you might try a hard-start kit but if the compressor has failed mechanically the hard-start kit won't get the compressor to start. In this case, replacing the compressor is a good plan so long as the rest of the theory is not decrepit. After replacing the compressor, you must thought about analyze the operation of the entire theory to determine Either the compressor qoute was induced by something else.

Rarely, the compressor will contact a valve failure. In this case, it will Either sit there and appear to run happily but will pump no fluid (valve won't close), or it will lock up due to an inability to move the fluid out of the compression room (valve won't open). If it is running happily, then once you have established that there is genuinely fullness of freon in the system, but nothing is moving, then you have no option but to Change the compressor. Again, a theory with a compressor that has had a valve failure is a good candidate for a new compressor.

Now, if the compressor is mechanically locked up it could be because of a merge of things. If the compressor is on a heat pump, make sure the reversing valve is not stuck half way. Also make sure the expansion valve is working; if it is blocked it can lock the compressor. Also make sure the filter is not clogged. I once saw a theory that had a locked compressor due to liquid lock. Some idiot had "serviced" the theory by adding freon, and adding freon, and adding freon until the thing was thoroughly full of liquid. Trust me; that does not work.

Should analysis show a clogged filter, then this should be taken as sure evidence of some failure in the theory Other than a compressor failure. Typically, it will be metal fragments out of the compressor that clogs the filter. This can only happen if something is causing the compressor to wear very rapidly, particularly in the pistons, the rings, the bores, and the bearings. Either the compressor has vastly insufficient lubrication Or (and more commonly) liquid freon is getting into the compressor on the suction line. This behavior must be stopped. Look at the expansion valve and at the reversing valve (for a heat pump).

Often an old theory experiences enough mechanical wear internally that it is "worn in" and needs more torque to start against the theory load than can be delivered. This theory will sound just like one with a locked bearing; the compressor will buzz loudly for a few seconds then the thermal limiter will kill it. Occasionally, this theory will start right up if you whack the compressor with a rubber mallet while it is buzzing. Such a theory is a good candidate for a hard-start kit. This kit market power and, when the compressor is told to start, dumps extra current into the compressor for a second or so. This overloads the compressor, but gives some extra torque for a short time and is often enough to make that compressor run again. I have had hard-start kits give me an extra 8 or 9 years in some old units that otherwise I would have been replacing. Conversely, I have had them give only a few months. It is your call, but inspecting how cheap a hard-start kit is, it is worth trying when the symptoms are as described.

And this, in a nutshell, is what can happen to an air conditioner compressor and what you can do about it.

The Ways An Air Conditioner Compressor Can Fail, and What To Do About It

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How to Fix a Warped Door

A warp in a door does not organize overnight - it happens gradually, so the sooner you notice, the easier it is to correct. The first real sign may be the door not windup properly, or the lock failing to work.

Doors made from badly seasoned timber are particularly prone to warping, though once you have corrected the warp it is unlikely to return. However, in some instances the warping is caused by exterior factors - such as a radiator sited too close to the door, or bad ventilation. If you intuit that this is the case, take steps to deal with the external problems or the warp may recur.

Stainless Steel French Door Refrigerator

If the warp is not too severe, there are any ways of forcing the door against the twist. Some of these, however, require the door to be kept shut and in many cases this is not convenient.

If you can keep the door shut, wedging it shut against the warp for a few days may well prove to be effective.

To do this, look along the door to check the extent of the warp. Then, with the door just touching the doorstop, portion the gap in the middle of the door and stop at the widest point and cut a wooden block slightly larger than this gap. Fit the block at the point where the door and stop shut, so that it touches the stop at top and bottom. If leaving the door shut isn't possible, you can either try altering the position of the hinge on the door frame to take up the twist (see diagram), or else alter the doorstop. How you do this depends on either you have a stop which is a isolate piece of wood nailed on (planted) or one cut out of the wood of the door frame itself (rebated). If you have a planted stop, close the door and cut a block of wood slightly larger than the widest gap. Run the block down the edge of the door marking the stop with a pencil. Prise the stop off. Loosen with an old chisel then pull away from the frame with your hands. Plane the stop then refit it flush with the door.

A rebated stop forms part of the door frame and can't be removed. Instead you have to add a shaped piece to the stop to fill the gap.

To do this, portion the length of the gap in the middle of the door and stop. Then portion the width at the widest point.

Cut a wedge to these dimensions (see diagram) and nail it to the stop at the proper point. Once the wedge is in position, trim it again until you get a perfect fit.

The remedies above only work if the door has warped at the top or bottom corner. If it has warped in the centre you will have to cut a curved wedge tapered at both ends.

Another way to deal with this problem, if you can take off the door, is to try laying it flat, supported on two chairs, bowed side up. Place some heavy weights on top and leave it for a few days.

How to Fix a Warped Door

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